First-class rugby, passionate supporters, ex-internationals running bars and a stunning coastline. What more could you ask of a rugby trip to the Basque country?

How to get there: Cheaply. Budget airlines EasyJet and Ryanair both fly to Biarritz's own airport which is just a short cab ride from town. EasyJet flies from London Gatwick and Bristol, while Ryanair flies to Biarritz from London Stansted and Birmingham airports. Alternatively, SNCF fans can fly to Bordeaux and take the two-hour train journey down to the Basque country instead. British Airways fly from Gatwick, EasyJet from Bristol, Liverpool and Luton, and BmiBaby hit the 'Ritz from Manchester.

Where to stay: As a resort town, Biarritz is naturally packed with hotels of all grades and prices. You don't have to follow the town's royal visitors into the five-star Hotel du Palais to have a comfortable stay either, as there are plenty of good value hotels close to the heart of the action, including Hotel Anjou, Hotel Saint Julien and Hotel Au Bon Coin.

The stadium: Parc des Sports Aguilera is a five-minute taxi ride or a half-hour walk from town, straight up the Avenue de Verdun. The 13,500-seat arena is one of the most modern in the Top 14, and its two stands are named after the two Serges who have dominated the club's recent history - former player and now club president Serge Blanco, and BO benefactor Serge Kampf.

L'atmosphere: Surprising for a presidential stand, the best atmosphere at Aguilera is in the Tribune Serge Kampf lower, and led by club mascot Robert "Le Chef Indien" Rabagny, his little injuns and a band that plays non-stop cowboy film music beats Serge Blanco's tribune populaire hands down. Before the match, sample a bit of the pre-match anticipation with a three-courser or just a demi or two in the bustling Brasserie du Stade, and pick up a merguez and another demi round the back of Tribune Serge Blanco, where the supporters' band will keep the atmosphere up until the last fan has headed into town.

The bars: Plenty of choice in town, from the touristy terraces in Place Clemenceau to the smarter but pricier bars down towards the beach on Rue du Port Vieux. For the rugby fan, three bars will stand out: Red Café (9 Avenue Marechal Foch) is owned by Serge Betsen and Philippe Bernat-Salles and is the liveliest rugby bar in town, lined with souvenirs, shirts and flags. Down towards the beach on Place du Port Vieux is Café Caritz, a stylish bar/restaurant owned by another French international, prop Pascal Ondarts. Pascal can usually be seen behind the bar, but don't expect a smile from the notorious hard man. Finally, Cote Vestiaire near the indoor market on Rue des Halles is small but perfectly formed, and kitted out to look like a changing room, complete with maillots from all over France and further afield.

The restaurants: You're spoilt for choice again, but if you want a bit of rugby with your three-courser, Café Red and Café Caritz both offer lunchtime menus, and the restaurant at Hotel Au Bon Coin (just off the Avenue de Verdun on the road from town to Parc Aguilera) is a veritable maillot museum - you'll spend more time recognising the framed shirts that line the walls than you will tucking into your steak-frites. Bar Brasserie Le Bartocq, opposite les Jardins Public further up Avenue Foch, is another rugby haunt – listen to the locals discussing the fates of Biarritz and Bayonne over an aperitif before watching a match on the big screen in the restaurant area. On match day, if you book early, the brasserie at Parc Aguilera itself offers a no-nonsense pre-match three-courser that's low on choice but high on quality. Away from the centre of town, the Spanish quarter boasts a range of different cuisines, with plenty of quality restaurants to be found on Rue d'Espagne and Rue Harispe, a 10-minute walk from Place Clemenceau.

The culture: Although Biarritz was settled by vikings as early as 840 and was a prosperous centre of the Basque whaling trade for 700 years, it owes its current status to the 19th century royalty who made it their favourite holiday destination. In 1854, French Empress Eugenie persuaded her husband Napoleon III to build her a villa on the beach (now the Hotel du Palais), and the British royal family followed – one thoroughfare is named after King Edward VII. In the 20th century Ernest Hemingway and Frank Sinatra were frequent visitors, and Rita Hayworth and Jayne Mansfield made it the Monte Carlo of the Atlantic coast. And like Monte Carlo the town has casinos, an aquarium (complete with sharks) and wide sandy beaches – all of them open to the public and well worth a visit for a game of beach rugby or just a hungover lie-down. Watch out for the surfers though - Biarritz has been a mecca of the sport since the 1950s. Sports-wise, Biarritz is also home to several Pelota courts. You can see this traditional Basque ball game at Parc Aguilera and at several other frontons or trinquets in the town.

Excursions: You'll be hard pressed to tear yourself away from the beach or the beach-side cafés while in Biarritz, but if you fancy getting out of town, take the short trip to Bayonne and have a meal on the banks of the river Nive, or hop on the train down the coast to the pretty harbour and golden beach of St Jean de Luz. The end of the train line at Hendaye is a mile from the border - you can take a ferry over to the Spanish village of Hondarribia. If you've got a car you can even go round to San Sebastian, home of Estadio Anoeta and Basque Spain's most popular destination.

Double-teter: On the rare occasion that neighbours Bayonne play at home on the same weekend at Biarritz, a weekend of Basque rugby would revitalise even the deadest of rugby hearts. The Biarritz massive are almost sedate compared to their light-blue rivals. Alternatively, head down the coast to watch St-Jean-de-Luz Olympique ply their trade in Federale 1, or take the 45-minute train to Dax to catch the former Top 14 side in Pro D2 action.

Going native: It goes without saying that you should wear red, and although the passion for the foulard neck-tie isn't as great at Parc Aguilera as it is over in Bayonne, they do love those inflatable tubes that you bang together to make the world's most annoying noise. Or les paf-pafs, as the French call them. But a great way to get in with the locals is to get to the ground early and grab a seat at the club's restaurant. The buffet starters and duck-or-steak main is hardly cordon bleu stuff, but the great and the good of BOPB will be in there along with famous faces from French rugby.

Dragon food: Biarritz's mix of high fashion and seaside kitsch mean you should find something for her indoors. Pays Basque casual house 64 (it's the number of the department) has no less than three shops on Place Clemenceau alone, and as the home of Serge Blanco, his pricey Quinze line has a branch on Boulevard Edward VIII (although if you love her than much it'd be cheaper just to bring her along). Les oiseaux love flowers and chocolate, and thoughtfully Atelier de Chocolat combines the two to offer a bouquet of chocolate at its shop on Place Clemenceau. And if you really can't be bothered, a string of shops down towards the beach on Rue de Mazagran sells all manner of Basque tat from fridge magnets to soup bowls and of course the Gateau Basque.

Le Rugby's Tour rating: 9/10. A rugby-mad town with a unique seaside atmosphere.