|
Thinking of stopping off in Dax to watch a bit of Pro D2 rugby? Read our guide to where to stay, where to eat and drink and how to blend in with the locals.
How to get there: It's a toss-up between flying to Bordeaux or Biarritz and getting the train to Dax (an hour either way). EasyJet serve both from various UK airports, BA serve the 'Deaux while Ryanair flies to the 'Ritz from the usual regional airports.
Where to stay: The thriving thermal spa business means you'll never be short of a hotel room in Dax, but if you don't want to share the breakfast room with rheumatic pensioners, try Hotel de la Nehe, in the centre of town near the Fontaine Chaude.
The stadium: Stade Maurice-Boyau is a five-minute walk from the centre of town. Walk through Parc Theodore Denis, round the stunning bullring and the sports complex is right in front of you. Keep an eye out for the pelota court on the left of the stand.
L'atmosphere: Seats in the Tribune Face will set you back less than 20 euros and may get you a seat alongside the Allez Dax supporters' club and near the Dax band - if they show up.
The bars: Bar Le Fairplay is at the entrance to the AS Dax complex and the after-match party will go on for a good few hours, especially if Les Dacqoises win. Back in the centre of town, Place de la Fontaine Chaude boasts a couple of lively late venues, including Bar Atmosphere, Bar Thermal and Charly's Bar, while chouettes-de-nuit can carry on drinking and dancing in Club O Purple and in the pubs and clubs on Avenue Georges Clemenceau.
The restaurants: Don't be put off by the touristy appearance of Dax's Place de Thiers, where three bar/restaurants sit side by side and share a large terrace. Enjoy three course meals in the shade of the trees for 15-20 euros at La Bodega, Le Bala or the rugby-friendly Bar le Thiers - tell Papa we sent you.
The culture: Dax is one of France's most popular spa towns, and the nearby St Paul-les-Dax is home to giant hotels specialising in water therapy and mud baths. But you can experience the waters without leaving Dax itself: the hot mineral springs are collected in the walled fountain in Place de la Fontaine Chaude, and visitors can wash hands, face or feet in their 65-degree heat. A statue to the roman legionnaire who discovered the healing qualities of the local mud can be found outside the town's 17th century cathedral. The town's other claim to fame is its bullfighting traditions. The bullring in Parc Theodore Denis can be visited on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, although the audio guided tour around the 100-year-old arena - narrated by local rugby legend Pierre Albaladejo - is only in French.
Excursions: Rent a car and head an hour east to the banks of the river Nive to visit the chapel of Notre Dame du Rugby, in Larivierre near Mont-de-Marsan. The small church is dedicated to the sport and features shirts from the world over and rugby-themed stained glass windows.
Double-teter: Mont-de-Marsan are Dax's nearest rivals, and the town, and its own Pro D2 rugby team, are just 35 minutes away by train. Local lower league fare can be found up the road at St-Paul-Les-Dax.
Going native: take your own big bass drum, trombone or tuba and blend in with the Dax band, or alternatively challenge the locals in Parc Theodore Denis to a game of petanque on your way to the stade.
Dragon food: It's not a local delicacy, but a box of lemony madelaine cakes from Madeleines de Dax (Rue de La Fontaine Chaude) come in a specially printed box tied up with a bright ribbon, all for a euro a piece. Look like you've really made an effort when all you've done is stopped off between bars.
Le Rugby's Tour rating: 9/10. Rugby mad and bar-red up to the neufs. |