How to get there: Budget airlines fly to nearby Biarritz airport from Bristol, Birmingham and London airports, and it's only a short hop on the navette into town. Alternatively, fly to Bordeaux and get the 90-minute train into Bayonne.

Where to stay: There are plenty of reasonably priced centre-ville hotels, in lively Petit Bayonne, historic Grand Bayonne and in the quarter of Saint Esprit across the Adour. The pick include Des Arceaux (Grand Bayonne), Adour, Cote Basque and Paris-Madrid (Saint Esprit) and Monbar and Hotel des Basques (Petit Bayonne).

The stadium: Stade Jean Dauger is south west of the town centre, follow the river Nive and it's just five minutes from the heart of Grand Bayonne.

L'atmosphere: Jean Dauger is a cauldron of rugby ferver, so wherever you'll sit there'll be atmosphere stoked up by pony-headed mascot Pottoka, but the real buzz is in the Tribune de Face, home to the fanatical Pena Baiona who run a bar round the back of the stand and unfurl their giant flag before every match.

The bars: Petit Bayonne is a maze of small streets with a bar or two hidden in every one, from lively modern pubs to family restaurants. You can even stop for a drink at Trinquet Saint André, the oldest pelota court in the Basque country. Bar Le Gernika, near the Chateau Neuf, is rugby-friendly and stays open till late on weekends before the locals head off to the clubs in nearby Anglet. You'll also find plenty of bars on both banks of the nive, with those on the Grand Bayonne side down towards the stadium by far the busier.

The restaurants: Both banks of the Nive are lined by restaurants, especially the terraces on the Grand Bayonne side. Get in early to enjoy an al fresco three-courser before the game. The lanes of Petit Bayonne offer family restaurants serving local food and tapas.

The culture: The capital of the French basque country, Bayonne is dominated by the twin spires of Notre Dame Cathedral, started in the 12th century but not finished until the spires were added in the 19th. Petit Bayonne is home to the Musée Basque, a collection of traditional artefacts situated underneath the arcades on the riverside. There's a castle on each side of the river, and further west of Grand Bayonne is the town's bullring, centrepiece of August's week-long festival. The river Nive itself, which bisects Grand and Petit Bayonne, is crossed by four stone bridges, ideal for strolling around town or a bank-to-bank bar crawl.

Excursions: The beaches of Biarritz are a short train ride away, and the Spanish border is only a little further, putting a visit to San Sebastian on the cards. But our choice is the fishing port of St Jean de Luz. It's got history (Louis XIV got married here), good food (watch the fishing boats bring their catch in before heading off to the nearby seafood restaurant) and a long golden beach, ideal for a hungover nap in the sand or a game of beach rugby.

Double-teter: Biarritz and Bayonne rarely play on the same weekend, so a Dauger-Aguilera double is unlikely. Dax is just 40 minutes inland, but again we'd head for St Jean de Luz to watch St-JdL Olympique try and battle their way out of Federale 1; their ground is a short cab ride from the town's railway station.

Going native: Pick up a foulard - the fans' distincitve blue and white necktie - from the club shop on Rue d'Espagne, and learn to sing Pena Baiona, the fans' fervent 'Allez! Allez!' anthem that is sung before each game.

Dragon food: Chocolate. Jews forced out of Spain by the inquisition brought the recipe to Bayonne, where the locals promptly took it and formed a chocolate makers' association to which the immigrants weren't invited. Still, she won't know that as you take a box of the town's finest out of your suitcase.

Le Rugby's Tour rating: 10/10. Often loses out to Biarritz on the pitch but wins hands down off it. Compact but packed with shops, bars and restaurants, Bayonne makes every match day a festival.